Varanasi- a soulful site

image courtsey: varanasitourism

You have visited Delhi, Agra and Jaipur and now you are searching for a new experience to stir your soul. Look no further. Varanasi, often described as India’s 'most spiritual' city emanates enough magic and intrigue to delight even the well-trodden traveler. Take a trip to this unique destination on the banks of the holy Ganges River and immerse yourself in its atmosphere.

What to expect

The oldest city in India, and one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, Varanasi is frenetic and intense, colorful and chaotic. It's also an exhilarating and captivating place to visit once you get past the initial cultural shock. Also known as Benares and Kashi, Varanasi is famed for its ‘ghats’, giant steps leading down to the river, where Hindu pilgrims come to cleanse their souls of sin in the waters of the River Ganges. Hindus believe that Varanasi is an auspicious place to die - dying and being cremated here offers ‘moksha’ or liberation from the endless cycle of rebirth. These rituals of cleansing and cremation take place in full view on the riverbank.

Arrival and orientation

Varanasi’s old city stretches back from the Ganges to a pedestrianised maze of alleys, or 'galis'. Although claustrophobic and crowded, this is the most interesting area of the city. The embankment is lined with almost 100 ghats, with central Dasaswamedh Ghat being the busiest.

The main railway station ‘Varanasi Junction’, also known as ‘Varanasi Cantonment’ is west of the old city and a short rickshaw ride away. The bus station is also close by. Cycle or auto-rickshaws can be found outside the station. If heading to the old city, just ask for the Dasaswamedh Ghat. The airport is 16 miles away.

What to do in Varanasi

From visiting temples to soaking up the atmosphere in the galis, there is plenty to do:

Take to the water: A magical dawn boat ride on the Ganges will give you an unparalleled view of the ghats and temples and you might even spot a river dolphin. Watch the morning bathing rituals and witness cremations taking place at Manikarnika Ghat. Book a ride with Sankrit Tour Zone or just stroll along the embankment and a boatman will find you.

Traipse around temples: Okay, maybe not all of them - there are hundreds, so select a few. The Durga Temple (known as the Monkey Temple due to the monkeys hanging around) is one of the most significant, dedicated to goddess Durga who protects the city, and the Kashi Vishwanath Temple (Golden Temple), dedicated to Shiva, and is one of the holiest in India with the tightest security.

Get lost in the galis: These dusty, noisy alleys can be disorientating, but that’s part of the fun. You’ll see shops selling silk, crafts, food, tucked-away shrines, candlelit deities in alcoves, and the odd sacred cow wandering around. Prepare yourself for the galis' pungent smell of cow dung, incense, rotten fruits and urine. It certainly awakens the senses!

Stroll along the ghats: See the women doing laundry, bathers, men fixing boats and boys playing cricket. Dasaswamedh Ghat is busy with masseurs under parasols. The brightly-painted Kedar Ghat is a bathing spot and the Manikarnika Ghat is a burning or cremation Ghat. Ashes are then placed in the Ganges. Uncremated bodies are sunk in the river and it’s not unknown for them to be washed up, so don’t be too alarmed if you spot one it’s all a part of Varanasi’s life and death experience.

Escape to Sarnath: Take a rickshaw for an exhilarating eight-mile ride through Varanasi’s busy, hot streets to sacred Sarnath for some fresh air and to see where Buddha preached his sermon in the Deer Park. The spot is marked by a stupa.

Attend puja: Every evening the mesmerizing puja, or prayer ceremony, takes place at Dasaswamedh Ghat and the air is filled with prayers, chants, music, and incense. Cymbals crash, bells ring, drums bang, and tea lights are cast into the Ganges. This intoxicating ceremony with a festival-style atmosphere attracts crowds – sit back, drink chai from clay cups, and enjoy the events unfolding.

Where to stay

The old city: This atmospheric quarter has several budget guesthouses overlooking the Ganges. The Ganpati Guest House has rooms with balconies overlooking the river and a restaurant with picture-postcard views. The Shiva Kashi Guest House also overlooks the river and has a restaurant and western toilets.

Lahurabir: Close to the station, this area isn’t particularly atmospheric but don’t worry, you’re a rickshaw ride away from the action. Budget and mid-range hotels can be found here such as the three-star Hotel Varuna with restaurant, garden and rooms with cable TV.

Cantonment: North of Varanasi Junction, this is where high-end markets and international hotels can be found such as the Ramada Plaza and the luxurious Nadesar Palace.

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